In November 2022, Kodak announced the end of production for Kodak chemicals in Japan, including the iconic KODAK D-76 developer. As a result, it’s no longer possible to purchase it at a fair price here. While there are alternatives, the cost of film and related chemicals has skyrocketed.

So, I thought, “If I can’t buy it, why not make it myself?” Just like making zines, I decided to try my hand at mixing my own D-76.
In this edition, I’ll share the necessary chemicals, tools, and step-by-step instructions so you can do the same.

You might be wondering, “Is there really any benefit to mixing your own developer? Isn’t this just a quirky hobby for enthusiasts?” Well, here’s a breakdown of the pros and cons of DIY film developers:

Pros

Cons

For example, in the U.S., a gallon of Kodak D-76 costs $14.95 at B&H. By mixing it yourself, the cost drops to just $6.21 per gallon, at least in Japan. That’s less than half the price.

Another advantage is flexibility. Let’s say you only have two rolls of film to develop and don’t want to mix a whole gallon of solution. With DIY, you can prepare just enough developer for those two rolls, saving resources and reducing waste.

That said, handling potentially hazardous chemicals can feel stressful at first. Measuring and mixing them carefully is important, but honestly, it’s a minor inconvenience for the cost and control you gain.

Chemicals

Tools

In Japan, you can find these chemicals at stores like Yodobashi Camera. If you’re in the U.S., they’re available from B&H or Photographer's Formulary.

As for the tools, I used regular paper instead of lab-grade weighing paper, so feel free to make do with what you have.
One note: Sodium Sulfite requires larger measurements (about 100g for 1 liter), so a regular spoon won’t cut it—you’ll need a proper scoop or a kitchen spoon.

To make 1 liter of developer, you’ll need the following ingredients/chemicals. Generally, you’ll add them in this order: Metol, Sodium Sulfite (anhydrous), Hydroquinone, and Borax.

Pro Tip: To prevent Metol from oxidizing, dissolve a small amount of Sodium Sulfite in the water first. Then, add the chemicals in the following order: Metol, the rest of the Sodium Sulfite, Hydroquinone, and finally Borax.

While distilled water is generally recommended, I used regular tap water because I trust its quality in Japan. Some people even experiment with bottled water like Volvic or Evian to see how it affects the results!

As you add each chemical, stir the solution thoroughly to ensure it’s fully dissolved before moving on to the next. Once all the ingredients are mixed, add cold water to bring the total volume to 1 liter.
Transfer the solution to a storage bottle and let it sit for 24 hours to ensure all the chemical reactions are complete before use.

This time, I developed a roll of KODAK TRI-X 400.

Using the stock solution without dilution, I processed it at 20°C (68°F) for 7 minutes. The results? Success! (The photos below are film negatives captured with my iPhone.)

I plan to share more detailed versions of these photos—either scanned or darkroom printed—on Instagram. (Here’s my Instagram, by the way.)

As you can see, mixing your own developer isn’t hard at all. If you’re a film enthusiast, I highly recommend giving it a shot. And if you’ve experimented with alternative or custom recipes, let me know—I’d love to hear about it!

That’s it for this week’s edition.

Thanks so much for reading all the way through! If you found this helpful, feel free to share it using the social buttons below. You can also hit “like” or leave a comment; I’d love to hear your thoughts!

See you again next Tuesday!

To everyone who’s already purchased “404 not found Issue 02”, thank you so much!
The first edition of 100 copies has sold out. However, due to requests for a restock, I’ve added 50 more copies. These are truly the final ones!